Lookie, a blog about climbing stuff!

The Godfather

August 21st, 2008 optimistic

The Godfather

east coast boulders represent.

Photo by Tomas Donoso

http://www.osophotography.com/

wtf

August 20th, 2008 slabdyno

does anyone even climb anymore?

i have to take a shit

garfield returns

July 28th, 2008 d-money

http://garfieldminusgarfield.net/

I don’t miss NY

July 27th, 2008 josh

Wish you guys were here….

pinotage

GUNKS ACCESS - WRITE SOMETHING USEFUL FEWLS

July 15th, 2008 slabdyno

Climbers Letters Needed to Help Open Minnewaska State Park to Climbing

Minnewaska State Park, which hosts numerous 50 foot crags on 200 foot quartzite cliffs – part of the greater Shawangunk Ridge (the Gunks) – is revising its Master Plan and potentially significantly expanding climbing opportunities in the Shawangunk region.  

On July 8th and July 10th, the Park held open house events to explain the forthcoming planning process and solicit public input. Local climbers and the Gunks Climbers Coalition (GCC) (www.gunksclimbers.org) attended both meetings and Park representatives duly noted their requests for expanded climbing opportunities. The Park is accepting written comments until August 11th. After reviewing the public comments, the Park will write a Draft Revised Plan.  The public will then have another opportunity to comment before the Park adopts a final plan.

Currently the Park only permits climbing in the Peters’ Kill area. Local climbing activists and the Access Fund worked to open this area to climbing during the original master planning process in 1996. The Park’s management of the Peters’ Kill area, which limits daily use 100 climbers, has successfully balanced resource protection and recreational use.  Additionally in cooperation with the Park the GCC has organized  regular Adopt a Crag events.

The revision of the Master Plan presents an opportunity to work closely with Minnewaska park management in order to open more areas of the park to climbing.  The GCC has indicated to the Park desired plans to actively participate in the planning process.

Climbers should write the Park by August 11th urging park officials to permit climbing in the entire park.  Letters should be addressed to :

Mark Hohengasser
New York State Office of Parks Recreation and Historic Development
Empire State Plaza
Agency Building
Albany, NY 12238
Mark.hohengasser@oprhp.state.ny.us

Larry Wheelock - NY West Hudson Representative
New York - New Jersey Trail Conference
156 Ramapo Valley Road
Mahwah, New Jersey 07430-1199

Tel: 201-512-9348 Ext 16
Fax: 201-512-9012
Mobile: 973-650-3228
Email: wheelock@nynjtc.org

Not In Dosage V: Not PCG

June 28th, 2008 freehole

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ldWs7nEaWZY

 watch in high quality bishes. BIG UP look out!!!

Dosage V: PCG

June 25th, 2008 optimistic

MUSTARD SAUCE

PGC ANYONE??!?!?!

Can not wait till fall. Also prety excited about seein some pcg in the upcoming dosage video. gonna be awesome.

Say What You Will About New Mexico…

June 22nd, 2008 drewz

but they call a spade a spade gas-station.jpg

UTAH. IDAHO.

June 17th, 2008 optimistic

glock

GUNS.

full face

UGH. GET FULL FACED.

lcc

 BOULDERS.

maple

ROUTES.

so i went to utah and idaho recently. and those are some photos from the trip. pretty psyched about maple canyon. hopefully ill get back there in the fall.

2001

June 14th, 2008 optimistic

so…

im gonna step back a bit here and take a brief look at the climbing world as ive seen it since i started climbing in 2001.

lots happened up to then, but 2001 was the year for me when everything started. 2001 was a pretty epic year as far as climbing is concerned. chris sharma climbed realization, the first dosage movie was put out, the roc trip had not yet come to the gunks, the pca was still cranking, and dave graham had just finished his inital tear through europe, sending action direct among other things. it was pretty rad to see that stuff in videos, only to take my first trip to bishop and actually see the mandala and soul slinger, two problems that distinctly stood out in my mind. at this point, it seemed like the just begun.

so where are we seven years later?

V15s have been done. 5.15s have been repeated. and everest has been topped out by soccer moms and naked people. and how about the number of people climbing double digit boulder problems? it is somewhere probably around 200% increase of that in 2001, when climbing a v10 in a single day would warrant a write up on neb.com or a mention in climbing magazines hot flashes. and thats still totally valid and bad ass even to todays standards. climbing is still growing at an extrodinary rate and there are new climbing gyms popping up everywhere. its kinda neat to look at how much change there’s been in those 7 years.

and yet the gunks is still underrated, overlooked, and stiff as hell.

its nice to know that some things havent changed. after having traveled to france, bishop, the south, utah, pawtuckaway, and plenty of small crags across the country, im pretty proud to call the gunks home. every year we’ve seemingly found and deveolped more areas, without an end in sight. people will still hail the buttermilks or hueco or rmnp as the best in the states.

and thats fine. we’ll keep the gunks to ourselves. im sure glad i moved here to ny. i wouldn’t have it any other way.